在婚礼上穿“褂”的名人 Chinese celebrity who wear "gua" in their wedding ceremony

秀禾服 vs 龍鳳褂 “Song wo fu” vs “long feng gua”

穿上中式禮服出嫁是近年來大受歡迎的潮流。

眼見女明星在結婚時，也無一不跟上傳統，穿得一身金金紅紅。

中式禮服有很多種，除了最熱門的龍鳳褂，其實秀禾服也深得新娘喜愛。驟眼看或許看不出來，但只要細心留意其實各有各特點。穿秀禾服出嫁的女星，還不比龍鳳褂的少。說起秀禾服的風潮冒起，主要是從2002年初上映的電視劇《橘子紅了》開始被大家所注視。乘著電視劇的火紅，周迅所飾演的女主角秀禾，古典而溫婉的形象讓大家非常深刻，所穿的服裝更被稱為「秀禾服」，也逐漸成為中式嫁衣的代名詞。


「秀禾服」其實是一種漢族女子所穿的襖裙，上衣在裙子之外。它的特點是外型寬鬆，大多採用平面剪裁；寬大的衣身和袖子，配以下身大裙擺(又稱馬面裙)，掩藏起女身體性線條，感覺端莊大方。剪裁寬大的秀禾服基本上不挑身型，如果你是微胖的新娘，穿上去會有很好的「遮肉」效果。相比起來，龍鳳褂的剪裁更為立體及修身，肩部及袖子位置也比較窄身，下身裙擺則用上直筒設計，看上去會比較顯瘦。

秀禾服上的圖案十分多元化，除了婚慶常見的龍鳳，任何有好意頭寓意的花草和動物圖案皆見，好像有牡丹、金魚、蝙蝠、石榴花、錦鯉、祥雲、百合等等，象徵著各種對新人的祝福。(例如牡丹有花開富貴的寓意，金魚就是「有餘」的意思)。

Now a day, wearing traditional Chinese wedding gown in the wedding ceremony become a popular trend among the Chinese female celebrity.There are many kinds of Chinese traditional wedding gown; one of them are “long feng gua” and “song wo fu” and “long feng gua” still be the first choice choose by the Chinese celebrity to wear in their wedding ceremony.

Recently “song wo fu” become a new trend  wear by the Chinese celebrity in their wedding ceremony after a TV show  called “橘子紅了” released in the early of 2002 where the heroine:  Zhou Xun wore it in the movie.  The classical images where zhou xun wear the “song wo fu” impress everyone.

"Song Wo fu" is a skirt worn by a “Han” woman. The main design is a bit loose, flat cut; large sleeves, with a loose skirt. The main embroidery patterns for “song wo fu” are dragons and phoenixes, peony, goldfish, bats, pomegranates, koi, auspicious clouds, lilies, etc. Each embroidery pattern contains a blessing to the bride and it has a variety of unique meanings.

龙凤褂 longfeng gua

龙凤褂裙是汉族服饰，源自明代立领马面袄裙，清代上衣称为褂，马面袄裙就有了裙褂的称呼，近代广东人多穿褂裙出嫁，视之为体面，所以，这种手艺亦南传，至今以潮汕手工最著名。百年前的南粤，不同的辈份，穿的裙褂也是不一样的。新娘子一般会穿大红色，密度在80%-100%（褂王）的裙褂（那时候要做一年哦）；长辈（新娘的母亲、新郎的母亲）会穿黑衣红裙或全黑的，密度在60%-75%（密五福或大五福）的裙褂；亲属（也属长辈，如：姨妈，姑妈，姐姐，亲嫂等）会穿红色或黑色（颜色不限），密度在70%-55%或50%以下（中五福至五福宝）。其它亲朋，衣着宜以这类服饰为主，不规定是裙褂。

如今，龙凤褂在中国非常受欢迎, 主要流行于广东、潮汕、香港、澳门一代。龙凤褂是中国不可或缺的中式婚纱。 龙凤瓜以龙凤图案，赋予其吉祥的意义。 除了龙凤之外，龙凤瓜还出现了五个刺绣蝙蝠，意思是五福的到来。 龙凤瓜比上述三件中式婚纱更加简约，可以展现女性的曲线美。 在现代中国，当中新人们拍摄中式婚纱照时，会以凤冠霞为主，但是当他们为客人喝酒时，他们更喜欢龙凤瓜

“longfenggua” is Han costumes, which originated from the Ming Dynasty. In Qing Dynasty the blouses are called “gua”褂. Now a day a lot of Cantonese people would like to wear “gua” 褂 to get marry and the most famous hand-made of “gua”is made in Chaoshan. Hundred years ago different generations wear different kind of“gua”during the wedding ceremony. The bride usually wears red color of “gua wang”(褂王); the elders (the bride's mother, the groom's mother) will wear “MiFuFu or DaWuFu”; relatives (also known as elders, such as: aunt, aunt, sister, relatives, etc.) will wear“Zhongwufu”to “Wufubao”

“Longfenggua” (龙凤褂) is quite popular and be an indispensible Chinese wedding dress in China now a day. The dress is stitch with dragon and phoenix which mean to auspicious. Besides dragon and phoenix, you also can found five bats embroidered on the dress, which it bring the meaning of blessing  ”wu fu lin men”. The “longfenggua” is simpler than the old style Chinese wedding dress. Usually “fengguanxiapei” will be wear by the bridegroom during the photo taking session while “longfenggua” will be wear in wedding dinner.

现代的婚纱 Chinese wedding dress in modern time

中式的婚纱和装饰的设置主要为鲜红色，红色是中国人最喜欢的传统和神圣的颜色，因为它代表了快乐，活力，明亮和喜悦的情绪。此外，红色也被认为是驱使邪灵和好运的象征。 这与西方不同，西方的婚礼主要的颜色是纯白色和黑色。 中国北方的传统中式婚纱通常是一件旗袍，旗袍主要以红色为主，并绣有精美的金银色设计。 中国南方的新娘喜欢穿裙褂，因为裙褂精心装饰着金龙和凤凰，他们也常被称为龙凤褂（龙凤褂），即现代中国的龙凤褂。

The main color for Chinese wedding dresses is bright red. As you may know red is the most favored color by Chinese as it represents happiness, vitality, good luck and joy.  The traditional Chinese wedding dress in northern China usually is in one piece of frock named Qipao(旗袍), which it is  embroidered with gold and silver design. Brides in Southern China prefer to wear "two-piece dress" named Qungua or QunKwa(裙褂), as they are otfen elaborately adorned with gold dragon and phoenix,so they are often called longfeng gua(龙凤褂)or name as "dragon phoenix coat" in mordern China.

明朝婚纱(1368-1644) Chinese Wedding Dress in Ming Dynasty (1368——1644)

在明朝,结婚被誉为一种小型民事检查，所以新郎的结婚礼服是九级军官服装, 新娘服为凤冠霞帔。  凤冠是古代女性最尊贵的饰物, 新娘的凤冠霞佩包括凤冠，红色面纱，红色礼服，后代包，红色连衣裙，红色鞋等。 这件婚纱礼服被认为是所有中式婚纱中最经典，最具代表性的婚纱。

In Ming Dynasty, marriage was treating as handle a small civil case, hence the groom wear an officer’s costume as his wedding suit, while “feng-guan-xia-pei “ was the bride's wedding dress. The phoenix crown is the most valuable jewels for ancient women. The “feng-guan-xia-pei “ includes phoenix crown, red veil, red dress, bag,  red shoes and so on. The wedding dress can be considered as the most classical among others dynasty.

唐朝婚纱（618--907）Chinese Wedding Dress in Tang Dynasty (618——907)

唐朝婚纱结合了周朝婚纱的庄严和喜悦。 当新娘穿着绿色礼服时，新郎穿着红色礼服。 基于长发与花簪的修整，”钗钿礼衣”是在晚唐发展起来的。 服装的特点是有多层和长袖。 日本的和服是从这个婚礼服装发展而来的。 穿着这件婚纱，新娘必须搭配金属和珠宝制成的发夹。 唐代以后，精致的”钗钿礼衣”被简化了。

In Tang dynasty, the bridegroom wears in red while the bride wears in green dress. In late Tang dynasty, “chai dian li fu” become a famous and common wedding dress. “chai dian li fu”  is in long sleeves and has many layers. “Kimono” in Japan is inspired by the idea of “chai dian li fu”. To make the wedding dress look gorgeous, the bride has to match with a hairpin which is made from a lot of metals and jewels. At the end Tang dynasty, the “chai dian li fu” is being simplified.

周朝婚纱（公元前1046年 - 公元前256年）Chinese Wedding Dress in Zhou Dynasty (1046BC——256BC)

周朝的中式婚纱特点是谦虚和庄重。婚纱的颜色与后世不同。主色为黑色和浅红色，而晚年则是鲜红色。 新郎的头上戴着爵弁帽子，而穿着的玄端有两层，白色是内衣，黑色和浅红色是外套。 新娘穿着的纯衣纁袡，其中包括浅红色内衣和黑色外套。 此外，新娘必须用50厘米的发带和25厘米的发夹将头发绑起来。

The color of wedding dress for Zhou Dynasty is a bit different from the later generations. In the early of Zhou Dynasty, the main colors are black and light red, while in late Zhou Dynasty the wedding dress has change to bright red.  “jue bian” is worn on bridegroom’s head, and”xuanDuan” is worn on his body.”xuan duan”  has two layers, the white color one is the inner coat, while the black and light red color is the second layer coats. The wedding dress for the bride is called as” chun yi xun ran”. The inner coat is in light red and the second layer coat is in black. Besides, the bride must tie her hair with a 50 cm hair band and a 25 cm hair clip.

中式婚纱礼服的历史 The History of Chinese Wedding Dress

在中国古代历史上，每个王朝都有自己的婚纱礼服风格。 它可以分为3个主要类别：

在周朝，新郎服为”爵弁玄端”;和新娘服为”纯衣纁袡”;

在唐代，新郎服为”梁冠礼服”; 和新娘服为”钗钿礼衣”;

在明代，新郎服为: “九品官服”, 九品官服也被称为中国高级官员长袍。

In China ancient history, each dynasty has its own wedding dress style. It can be categories into 3 main categories which are:

In Zhou dynasty, they were 爵弁玄端 (pinyin: jue bian xuan duan) for groom and 纯衣纁袡 (pinyin: chun yi xun ran) for bride;

In Tang dynasty, they were 梁冠礼服 (pinyin: liangguanlifu) for groom and 钗钿礼衣 (pinyin: chai dian li fu) for bride;

In Ming dynasty , they were 九品官服 (pinyin: jiu pin guan fu) for groom and 凤冠霞帔 (pinyin: feng-guan-xia-pei) or called Chinese phoenix coronets and robes of rank.

15) 三朝回门 After 3 days of marry (San Chao Hui Men)

是婚后第三天，新妇由夫婿陪同下，带备烧猪及礼品回娘家祭祖。男家须带备烧猪一只﹝喻新娘的贞洁﹞、西饼两盒、酒一对、竹蔗两支、鸡一对、生菜、生果两篮、葱、伊面两盒、鸡仔灯笼金、猪肚及猪肉各两斤。给女家回礼的通常是男家送来礼物的一半，其中以烧猪最为重要，烧猪头、尾及手脚各一和猪舌半边，并放利是在烧猪盆上。

简化方法：

大部份可用利是代替﹝烧猪除外﹞，回门烧猪宜在女家附近订购。可于即日出门，或第二天回门，但却不可超过三天。而即日回门，是指新人在男家拜过天地及翁姑后，便即时返回娘家，进行回门的仪式，之后再返男家或直接到酒楼。事实上，即日回门的好处可省时省钱，一次过利用已租来的花车、裙褂，新娘亦毋须再另找发型及化妆师，又可在翌日开始蜜月旅程。

On the third days after marriage, the couple will go back to the bride’s house to pray her ancestor. Thing to bring along are: a roast pig, two boxes of cakes, 2 wine, a pair of sugar cane, a pair of chicken, lettuce, 2 baskets of fruits, onion, Lantern, two pounds of pork belly and pork. In return the bride’s family going to share the entire thing in half with the groom.

Simplified method:

All the thing which need to bring along can be replace by a red packet ”ang pow”.

14) 進洞房、坐財庫、食新娘圓 Ceremony in the bridal room

進洞房後，將米篩放在新床上，媒婆引領新人坐在墊有新郎長褲的圓椅上，意謂「坐財庫」，表示婚後兩人將同心協力。之後喝交杯酒、食新娘圓。湯圓數字以六為佳，好命婆先餵新娘再餵新郎吃，邊餵邊說吉祥話，之後新人再互換湯碗各吃一個

Tips.
新娘圓裡，可以放入紅棗、花生、桂圓、蓮子與湯圓一起煮，意謂「早生貴子」。

Inside the bridal room, a rice sieve will place on the bed. The matchmaker will led the couple to sit on the round chair with the groom's trousers, which means “sit in the treasury”, it also bring the meaning that the couple will work together after their marriage. After that, the couple has to drink a glass of wine and eat the “tangyuan”. A “lucky guy”(Hao ming ren) will feed the couple eat the “tangyuan” while saying auspicious words.

13) 进门 Arrived the bridal chamber

新娘子迎新车队到达新郎家时，由一位拿着橘子的小孩来迎接新人，新娘要轻摸一下橘子，并赠红包答礼。这两个橘子要放到晚上，让新娘亲自剥皮，意谓招来"长寿"。进门时, 若新郎还有未娶的兄长, 需在门前挂上1条长裤, 膜拜神明.

新郎的家人在进门的时候, 长辈都不迎接新人. 当新人进门后, 新郎的家人才迎接这对新人. 从女家带来的甘蔗, 分开绑在男家的打门口。

当新人抵达时, 新郎的家人将不迎接新人。在膜拜神明后, 新人将返回新房, 面朝房门坐在床沿, 新郎在左, 新娘在右, 像征双方平起平坐。

Tips.
1.請注意入房吉時。
2.火爐與瓦片的位置應放置在家門門檻外。
3.入家門時男方家長與長輩要迴避。
一說是因為怕煞到；二說是認為長輩在家中等候晚輩進家門不合體統。

When the couple reaches the bridal chamber, they are welcome by the youngest and a kid who holds an orange in his hand, while the elder have to stay inside the house. The bride has to slightly touch the oranges and give a red packet to the kid in return. The orange will be keep till evening and eat by her as a symbol of prosperity. If the groom’s elder brother is yet marry, he needs to put on trousers in front of the door to let the couple to pass under the pants. The sugar cane bought by the bride will be tie up separately at the front gate of the groom’s house. After praying and met the elder, than only the couple can go back to their room.

12) 出门 Go back to the bridal chamber

向父母三鞠躬, 表示恩重如山, 亲情深似海. 出门时, 新人应避免踩到门槛. 父亲会用一把红伞遮挡新娘, 母亲则把混合了 茶叶, 缘钱, 白米, 红豆, 绿豆, 菜籽等的打撒在新婚夫妇身上.. 新娘随后跟进, 然后去新郎的家.新人在离开家前, 岳父, 母会赐新郎1碗百合莲子糖水.岳父, 母会请新郎吃'鸡蛋茶'/”甜茶’, 新郎不可把它吃完. 若新娘还有未娶的兄长, 需在门前挂上1条长裤, 新人从裤下跨出门, 像征他们祝愿新娘的兄长财禄无疆. 新郎打开车门, 从右侧跨进车里.新人上车后, 新娘会把手帕丢掉, 像征抛离过往的童稚生涯与脾气, 从此改头换面做个好耐性的贤妻良母.

Tips.
1.有些家庭會以雞蛋茶取代甜茶。
2. 有一說法是新娘離開家門，直到乘車離去前都不可以踩到門檻及回頭。


After the ceremony, the parents in law will give the groom a bowl of lotus syrup and “egg tea” but the groom is requested not to finish all the “egg tea” as a meaning of good luck. Before leaving, the couple has to give 3 bows to the bride’s parent as a symbol of grateful. If the bride’s elder brother is yet marry, he needs to put on trousers in front of the door to let the couple to pass under the pants.  The bride’s father will use a red umbrella to help the bride block the sun, while the bride‘s mother will sprinkle the combination of tea leaves, money, rice, red bean, mung bean, rapeseed etc to the couple. The groom will step in the car from the right followed by the bride. After get in into the car, the bride will throw away a handkerchief as a symbol of throw away the bad temper.

11) 迎娶 Procedure during the wedding

游戏后…

迎娶:新人不能够脱鞋, 新娘先向新郎三鞠躬. 把一束襟花结扣在新郎大衣的翻领上. 新郎带著花束赠新娘. 新郎掀开盖著新娘脸的头纱, 亲吻新娘的脸颊. 双方交换结婚戒指, 膜拜神明. 烧猪交去厨房(只取中间部分), 其余的用红纸包好, 连同一件给新郎的裤(称为'女婿裤'), 2粒柑, 2粒苹果及1封红包, 一并送返准新郎的家。

After the game:

The couple cannot take off their shoes; the bride and the groom have to bow to each other for 3 times, the bride help the groom to pin a lapel flower on his coat, while the groom will pass the bouquet flower to the bride and threw back the veil covered on the bride’s face, and kiss the bride cheek. The couple will exchange their wedding ring. After the ritual is complete, the couple will pray inside the bride’s home. Part of the roast pig will leave at the bride’s house the rest will bring back by the groom, with pants, 2 oranges, 2 apples and a red packet(ang pow)